This post will be in two parts, this was really a "free" day and I have a lot to cover. This is all about tuna and fish and the Tsukiji fishmarket - the largest fishmarket in the world - and it was FASCINATING!

It all began at the crack of dawn, took a taxi from the hotel, and 5 minutes later we were at the market. It is quite an extraordinary place, very narrow lanes, very crowded, and very interesting. Firstly, it took a little time to get our direction right, as a normal wholesale market abuts the fishmarket - which is divided into roughly three sections. After a minute's walk we knew we were there as the motorised fish carts went whizzing by. I had been forewarned on these, they stop for no one, driving back and forth along the narrow market lanes. Hence it was like being at the dodgem cars, every minute checking you weren't about to get run over.

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The auction process for the prized tuna is no longer open to the public, although we did see the wash-up when the fish (mainly frozen solid) were displayed. The deal is that commercial wholesalers buy the product, in turn once bought the tuna (and other fish) is then prepared and sold to restauranteurs. The photos below show the frozen tuna on display, and the handlers/buyers.

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Each tuna once auctioned has a very narrow coloured ribbon attached to it, corresponding to the purchaser's pre-designated colour code. It is then placed on the motorized (or hand drawn) carts and driven to the fishmarket stall holder. Here the fish, in the case of the frozen tuna, is cut and deboned using electric saws into chunks for later thawing and resale.

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The situation with fresh tuna is somewhat different, it is more of a ritualistic artform as the tuna is trimmed and then given to the fishcutter, who slowly and carefully slices and debones the tuna. It is all done very slowly and carefully, not surprising given the razor sharp blade and the value of the tuna flesh (a bluefin tuna went for a record 20,200,000 Yen last year - that's about $300K!). After each cut the blade is wiped down, and the tuna patted dry, and then more fine tuning occurs as the master cutter trims some more - the guy in yellow was very deliberate in his mannerisms and judging by the customers was well respected and was a cut above the rest (sorry couldn't resist the pun).

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I know all the attention thus far has been on tuna, but it is possible to buy every conceivable local species of fish (and other aquatic edible creatures) here as well. Hundreds of vendors selling their stock to the restauranteurs.

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These scallops were the size of a baseball mit!

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Naturally, life wouldn't be complete without looking at a few cephalapods, so here you go.

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As people know I have a slightly bent streak, so I've included this photo of some eels. It is one taste of seafood I have yet to taste....maybe some day down the track.

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After 2 fascinating hours, it was time for breakfast...so when in Tokyo....time for some sushi in a sushi bar. This little place seats about 10 people max, squeezed in like sardines (yes another pun) all eating sushi.

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It is made on the spot, placed on the little serving bar from which take your sushi, and then add what ever condiments you like: wasabi, soy sauce etc. It comes complete with a cup of green tea and a bowl of soup. Not a bad way to start the day, now just the rest of the day to go and it ain't even 08:00! That will have to wait for the next entry.

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comments

The artform of slicing tuna was in particular fascinating to read. Pleased you didn’t forget to include cephalapods smile

Posted by Anonymous on 30.11.05 at 10.14pm

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